Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Exciting Eye Catching Title...

Well it has been 4 months since my last post, proving once again that I may be one of the least consistent bloggers alive. I've been pretty busy, climbing, working, keeping up with life, and a little bit of this...

and getting stoked for things like this:

 I will mention that I turned 20 last month and I also fully decked out my stairwell/foyer into a relatively sweet little living space, complete with artwork and trippy tapestries and whatnot. No more messy stairwell dwelling.

On the climbing side of things, the weather was SICK this fall and I wish I had been able to climb a bit more, but they days I got in were fantastic and I'll share some photos because pictures say 1,000 words... and I sure don't want to type that many words.

Alpine bad-ass Colin Haley following the Golden Throat Charmer. A stunning Croft/Fraser testpiece from the 80's. 

And here is a telephoto shot of us from the parking lot courtesy of Bruce Maconald. Cheers Bruce!

Here is my friend Brette cruising 'The Daily Planet', easily one of the funnest corners in all of Squamish... and Squamish has MANY fun corners.

This typically damp Smoke Bluffs classic finally dried up enough to climb this Fall, here is my friend Chris leading 'Elephantiasis'

More recently, we finally got some cold dry weather. These days are pure gold for climbing in the Smoke Bluffs, the rock just gets so sticky and things that feel impossible most of the year suddenly feel 'not that bad'.
The other day I managed to finish a slab at Penny Lane dubbed 'The Moth', I had tried it a year or two ago and got utterly shut down by the crux bulge at the top, but feeling psyhed and with excellent conditions, the line went down on my third attempt in two days. The route was given 13+ by the first ascentionist and certainly felt like 5.impossible+++ when I first tried it. But everything came together really well for the send and the entire thing felt smooth and super enjoyable. It's amazing the difference having really good conditions can make.

Now I have a couple new unclimbed projects in the bluffs, a desperate face at Easter Island and a beautiful open slab at Penny Lane. I rapped the latter of the two in the rain with a set of hooks this afternoon and found enough positive crystals that I believe I may be able to bolt it on lead, which would be fun to try. Looking forward to some more dry weather, and hopefully another post relatively soon... for real this time.